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Kitch-iti-Kipi: The Big Spring

things to do in Michigan's Upper Peninsula: visit Palms Book State Oark

Off the beaten path in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula , in the land of pine trees and amber-colored rivers, there lies a mysterious, emerald green pond known as Kitch-iti-kipi. Named by the Ojibwe people, Kitch-iti-Kipi means “Big Spring.” The mystical beauty of the pond and surrounding area definitely make Kitch-iti-kipi worth visiting!

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Kitch-iti-kipi is located within Palms Book State Park, about 12 miles outside of Manistique. David and I pulled into the small parking lot on a crisp September day. We were relieved to find that it wasn’t overly crowded. (We’ve heard this isn’t always the case on beautiful summer weekends) A short jaunt over a boardwalk brought us to the edge of the pond.

Kitch-iti-kipi

Wooden bridge leading to Kitch-iti-kipi
Heading to join the line at the edge of the spring

Visitors were lined up along the boardwalk, waiting for the return of a self-propelled observation raft that travels over the water on cables. When it was our turn to board, a group of young boys raced to crank the large wheel in order to start the raft on its slow journey across the pond. The raft inched away from the dock, and within seconds we were entranced.

Kitch-iti-kipi's observation raft, heading out over the pond
Kitch-iti-kipi observation raft

The luminescent green color of the water was unlike any we have ever seen. At 200 feet across and 40 feet deep, Kitch-iti-kipi is Michigan’s largest freshwater spring. The water is crystal clear all of the way to the bottom, where swirling clouds of sand and bubbles indicate areas where spring water erupts through cracks in the underlying bedrock. Ten thousand gallons of water pour into the spring every minute. This creates constant movement that keeps Kitch-iti-kipi from freezing even during the coldest winter. A maze of fallen tree trunks are scattered throughout the spring. Their ghostly shapes, encrusted with minerals, are well-preserved in the cold water, lending a mystical feel to the experience.

Kitch-iti-kipi, Michigan's Big Spring
The raft traverses the spring along cables

And the fish! There were scores of them, some hanging motionless in the depths and others casually swimming about. At first we thought they must be carp due to their incredible size. But a closer look revealed that they were in fact trout: Lake trout, brook trout, brown trout…. Trout thrive in clean , cold water, and the constant 45 degree temperature of Kitch-iti-kipi suits them perfectly.

Visitors peered over the sides or down through a cut-out section through the bottom of the raft. There is also sturdy canvas covering over the raft, which helps cut down on the sun’s reflection. This roof makes it possible to check out the spring in any kind of weather, leading David and I to vow to return in the winter to see Kitch-iti-kipi surrounded by snow. The spring feeds into Indian Lake, and from there flows throught the Indian River to Lake Michigan.

The Legend of Kitch-iti-kipi

Various legends about Kitch-iti-kipi have been handed down through the ages. One of the most popular legends claims that Kitch-iti-kipi was the name of a young Native American chieftain who resided in the region. Kitch-iti-kipi fell in love with a beautiful dark-haired maiden he spotted dancing near his birchbark wigwam. She insisted that he prove his devotion to her above all others by setting sail in his canoe out on The Big Spring and catching her in his arms as she leapt from an overhanging conifer bough.

Kitch-iti-kipi complied, taking his canoe across the frigid water, his eyes searching the treetops for his ladylove. Tragically, his canoe overturned, throwing Kitch-ti-kipi into the icy depths, never again to return to the surface. All the while, the story goes, the beautiful girl was in her village laughing with the other maidens about the chieftain’s foolish attempt to win her heart. The Big Spring was named Kitch-iti-kipi in honor of the young chieftain who went to his death in search of love.

It was also said that the indigenous people would travel to the spring in search of a name for their newborn child. The soon-to-be parents listened to the bubbling waters in order to the names the magical waters whispered to them. Still other tales claim that the spring has special healing powers.

Palms Book State Park

Palms Book State Park is run by Michigan’s Department of Natural Resources, and there is an entrance fee of $9.00 per vehicle unless you have already purchased an annual park pass. Fishing and swimming are prohibited. (the 45 degree temperature definitely makes Kitch-iti-kipi unsuitable for swimming!) Amenities include restrooms, swings, grills and picnic tables, and a gift shop. This is a day-use park, with camping available about seven miles down the road at Indian Lakes State Park. David and I did not need the bug spray we had packed, but be sure to have some handy in case you are visiting on a day when the bugs are biting.

Most people arriving from the east or west travel along Highway 2, a lovely scenic drive that follows Lake Michigan’s northern shoreline. There are some spectacular photo ops along the way. Head north surrounded by the Hiawatha National Forest, either by taking M-149 at Thompson or M-94 to Manistique.

Where To Eat Near Kitch-iti-kipi

Cedar Street Café in Manistique

You’re going to need something to eat along the way and there are no restaurants (or gas stations for that matter) to speak of near Palms Book State Park . Make it a point to stop at the Cedar Street Café in Manistique either before or after your excursion across the Big Spring.

Cedar Street Café serves up delicious homemade breakfasts and lunches, complete with a full espresso bar and specialty coffees. David and I love searching for unique local eateries when we travel, and we couldn’t have been happier to discover this place. It has a warm, friendly atmosphere, tasty food and ample portions.

I ordered the house Tortilla Soup. Thick with tomatoes and perfectly spiced, the soup was tasty and filling. David ordered the vegetarian omelet: 3 eggs and chock full mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes and cheese. The kitchen staff was happy to accommodate David’s request to hold the onions.

Portions were huge and the omelet and hash browns were delicious, but it was the home baked rye bread that was truly incredible. Thick and full of flavor, it was even better than the rye bread we buy at specialty bakeries back home. Plus the bread came with a serving of home made blackberry jam that was absolutely to die for. We overheard a man sitting near us declare that his French toast with Madagascar vanilla sauce was the best he’s ever had. Check out Cedar Street Café’s Facebook page for their hours and menu.

Traveling across Michigans’ U.P. on your way to the popular towns of Marquette or Houghton? Heading up to take in Tahquameonon Falls or Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore? Or just crossing the Mackinac Bridge and going west across the Upper Peninsula to avoid the crush of traffic around Chicago? No matter which itinerary brings you to Michigan’s U.P., be sure to take the detour to The Big Spring. You’ll spend an unforgettable hour peering into the icy depths of Kitch-iti-kipi.

For more travel tips for planning your Upper Peninsula road trip, check out our blog post Seven Scenic Spots in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

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79 Comments

  1. What an interesting story for sure – love the history and folklore to the place. Great trip. I bet this would be gorgeous in the fall with all the colors. Thanks for sharing.

    1. It really is a great place to visit! David and I went there just before the falls colors started turning: We need to make a return trip!

  2. This is such a cool place. We visited with our family many years ago when we did a trip through the Upper Peninsula. Thanks for sharing so others can enjoy this place as well.

      1. I love hearing the stories behind the names of places☺️. Also prob shouldn’t have read this while I was hungry! Lol

  3. What an interesting spot! I’ve been meaning to head up to the UP the next time I’m visiting family in Michigan so I will be sure to check Kitch-iti-Kipi out! The legends of the Big Spring are fascinating. I love folklore like that 🙂

    1. We hadn’t visited the U.P. in a number of years. That’s one silver lining to all of these travel restrictions: it’s nice to explore our home state again!

    1. The legend is sad, isn’t it? I prefer thinking about the new parents listening to the whisper of the bubbling waters to discover the name of their newborn.

    1. I hope you have the opportunity to check out both Kitch-it-kipi and the incredible rye bread at Center Street Cafe one day!

  4. Looks like a great way to spend the day! My son would be entertained by the water and creatures for hours. I love all the green trees too!

  5. We never been to Michigan and this looks like a perfect place to visit during autumn too. I love the facts you include in here and the cafe find the food looks so delicious.

    1. Sandi: I couldn’t agree more! My travel bucket list grows so much faster than we are able to get to cross places off of the list.

  6. For about three years we lived summers near Pellston, MI and winters at Houghton. We’ve traveled through there many times but I don’t remember stopping. I’ll have to check that out as I’m living in Rhinelander in northern Wisconsin.

  7. What a magical spot! I had never heard of this place but it looks stunning. One of my dreams is travelling around the States for a whole summer and now I have another plate to add to my route! Thank you for this amazing story!

    1. How wonderful to swim in a spring! Kitch-iti-kipi looks so inviting for swimming, but at a bone-chilling 45 degrees year round it isn’t feasible!

  8. Interesting history of the area. The Kitch-iti-kipi Big Spring walk looks like it would be family friendly as well. The water is such a beautiful colour. I was wondering about swimming, but I think at that temp the view from above is a better idea.

    1. It was so tempting to jump into Kitch-iti-kipi! But the water is far to cold for swimming and signs strictly forbid it.

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