Raft the Grand Canyon!

Ready for an epic, once-in-a-lifetime adventure? Raft the Grand Canyon! At 227 miles long and over a mile deep, the Grand Canyon is one of the world’s greatest natural wonders and a hugely popular tourist attraction. The majority of tourists check out scenic views around the Canyon’s rim without ever venturing into the Canyon itself. Some explorers will hop on a mule to spend a few hours on a Canyon trail. And just a very small percentage of hardy visitors hike all the way down to the Canyon’s bottom.

Of course, these are great ways to experience the Grand Canyon. But we figured, “If time isn’t an issue, why not experience the entire canyon?” There’s no more comprehensive way to do this than to sign on for a rafting trip beginning at Lee’s Ferry and ending at Lake Mead . David and I crossed this tops-on-our-bucket-list trip off of our list back in 2009. At that time, we had to book over a year in advance in order to get a spot.

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Raft the Grand Canyon

We had been in search a family outdoor adventure that David and I could share with my dad, my brother, and my 14 year old nephew. We signed on for an 11 day trip with Colorado River And Trail Expeditions, (CRATE) a licensed concessionaire since 1971. There are a lot of rafting outfitters to choose from. We were attracted to CRATE because they emphasize off-river hiking and side canyon explorations. We were thrilled with the professionalism of this company, and our hiking expeditions proved to be the most memorable part of the trip for us. For more information about all of their rafting expedition offerings, check out the Colorado River & Trail Expeditions website.

Our adventure began at a Best Western in Las Vegas. All of the rafting participants met near the pool for an orientation the night before the start of our big adventure. The CRATE team went over safety protocols and what we could expect along the way. Each participant was issued a “dry bag” to stow all of our belongings in, as well as a small white “ammo” can where we could keep a few incidentals, such as sunscreen, that we might want to access during the day on the raft.

We ate breakfast, checked out of our hotel room and boarded a tour bus by 6:15 the next morning. David and I were thankful that Vegas’ three hour time difference made this early hour a little less painful for us!

Launch At Lees Ferry

We hit the parking lot at Lees Ferry after about a 5 hour drive. There, our larger group split up into 2 motorized rafts. We hit the river on the afternoon of the 4th of July.

Our raft seemed quite spacious with only the five of us plus another married couple with their 15 year old son and three experienced crew members. We each were issued a life jacket with a name on that back that had something to do with the Grand Canyon.  My nephew’s said Common Loon.  We did see several of these birds swimming not far from Lee’s Ferry. I was Jack Brennan, a postal carrier who was persuaded to join a rafting expedition and then spent the rest of his life on the river.  David’s life jacket said Tonto.  What does Tonto have to do with the Grand Canyon?  Not sure, but it was fun calling David “Tonto” for the duration of the trip.

We hit our first rapids within half a mile. The raft rode high up on the first wave, dove into a trough, and then got slammed with a wall of water from the next incoming wave. At the moment we realized we could never count on staying dry for long! Not long after that, we spotted a rare California Condor coasting above the river. We took this as a good omen for our trip.

Navajo Bridge

The first landmark we encountered was the Navajo Bridge. This bridge spans the river about 470 feet above the Colorado River. There isn’t another car crossing for 350 miles, until the Hoover Dam. We’d barely gone under the bridge when we were hit with our first rainstorm, accompanied by a bit of thunder. We were all drenched in seconds, as our rain gear was safely stowed away in our dry bags. The downpour lasted ten or fifteen minutes, and it was actually a refreshing relief from the heat.

We set up our first camp about 23 miles downriver. The rafts were beached on a sandy area, and everyone spread out to claim their sleeping spots for the night. Tents were available for anyone who wanted one, but it turned out that no one opted to use one during our entire trip. I had expected to sleep on the ground. Such a pleasant surprise to learn that there were fold-up cots for all of us. We also were given a plastic tarp and were told to drape it over us if it ever rained during the night. Luckily, we never had to deal with that!

Each night, the crew set up the kitchen and started cooking while the rest of us dragged our stuff across the sand and set up cots. We were quite impressed with the quality of the food. Our first night was a real 4th of July feast; hamburgers, hot dogs, baked beans and cole slaw, lemonade and water melon. Other dinners included fried halibut, beef stew, chicken fajitas with rice, and even grilled steak. Lunches were usually quick stops for cold cuts and chips. We enjoyed breakfasts of blueberry pancakes with sausage patties, or eggs made to order with bacon and English muffins.

The staff set up two bathroom stations at each campsite. The latrine itself was a toilet seat attached to a box. One was inside of a yellow privacy tent. We soon discovered it was hot and claustrophobic in there! Before long, most of us were standing in line to use the “scenic” bathroom: just the box itself set up in the open air in a discreet, private area. We grew to enjoy surveying the landscape from “The Scenic!”

We spotted a coach whip snake on the outskirts of camp. It was busy trying to devour a lizard’s tail. There was no sign of a “lizard bump” along the snake’s body, so we figured a tail-less lizard had escaped with its life. We didn’t mind having this particular snake in camp, as whip coach snakes are known to eat rattlesnakes!

After dinner, we played a bit of bocce ball in a sandy area. Afterwards, we tried to wash up in the river.  The water was incredibly cold.  I could only stand in it a minute or two before my feet started to ache.  So – it was dash in, dash out, soap up, dash in, rinse off, dash out, repeat. It was completely dark by 8:30 and everyone headed for their cots.

It took me a while to fall asleep that first night. We could feel the heat radiating out from the rocks, and we all ended up lying on top of our sheets. The rising moon made it look like the upper ridges of the canyon were lit up. We spotted the International Space Station, a bright speck of light streaming across the sky.

We awoke on the second morning to see that the brief thunderstorm from the day before resulted in flash flooding in the side canyons, carrying a ton of silt and sand into the river.  The clear bluish water of yesterday was gone, the river now a thick looking chocolate brown.  Dad nicknamed it “The Big Muddy,” and unfortunately it remained that way for the rest of our trip.

Redwall Cavern

The highlight of day two was pulling in for a lunch stop at Redwall Cavern, an immense chamber carved out of a towering limestone wall. We saw a number of little lizards scurrying around, and some marine fossils over 300 million years old in the cavern wall near the entrance. The cool shade within the cavern was the perfect spot for us to throw a frisbee around while the crew set up a table with sandwiches and hummus for lunch.

Nankoweap Granary

In the late afternoon, we stopped for a hike to a Pre-Puebloan granary. It was a steep climb up the cliff, and beastly hot. The view from the top was tremendous, and well worth the climb. The Nankoweap Granary consisted of square holes dug into the rock where ancient Anasazi hunters and gatherers stored their corn and seeds in an effort to protect them from rodents or flash floods. These storage bins were dated to about 1100 AD : before the days of Columbus!

Phantom Ranch

Day 3 found us making a stop at historic Phantom Ranch, located where Bright Angel Creek branches off from the Colorado River. The Ranch offers the only lodging within the Grand Canyon itself. It consisted of a campground, some dorms and cabins for hikers, a stable for mules and a small cantina. We enjoyed a some pretzels and beer while writing some postcards to send to friends and family

There is a suspension bridge over the river near Phantom Ranch.  The Bright Angel trail comes down from the South Rim, and it is possible for hikers to cross and continue up to the North Rim  We were lucky enough to observe a mule train coming down the trail and crossing the bridge.  It sure looked like a hot and dusty ride!

Interested in an overnight stay at Phantom Ranch? Book your adventure at the National Park Service website.

Shinumo Creek

Day 4 began with a terrific morning hike up Shinumo Creek. Less than 100 yards from the river, we came to a lovely small waterfall pouring into a pristine pool. It was so refreshing to sit under the falls and feel the silt from the river wash away. Such a great way to beat the heat

Elves Chasm

We continued hiking to reach a second waterfall. This part of the hike involved quite a bit of scrambling and boulder hopping. It was a rather strenuous side-trip, but the beauty of Elves Chasm was well worth it. The waterfall is magical, cascading down moss-covered rocks into an emerald-colored pool. The water was icy cold: a quick dip was all that I could handle. A few brave souls, including my nephew, jumped into the water from a cave-like opening half way up the waterfall. Our guides emphasized that jumping can be treacherous for those who don’t know the rock formation, and therefore it should never be attempted without an experienced guide. Elves Chasm was definitely one of the trip’s highlights for me.

Deer Creek Falls

Another epic side trip was hiking around Deer Creek Falls. This spectacular waterfall is close to the beach, plunging 180 feet down from a side canyon. It’s another great spot to enjoy a refreshing swim and a welcome respite form the heat. Some of our group chose to hang out there, while those of us up for a more strenuous hike above the falls, and we started out over a steep, rocky path.

The trail switches back and forth and the elevation climbs rapidly. At one point, there was a steep, slippery section. We stopped several times to catch our breath and admire the view.

We came to the mouth of a small slot canyon known as The Narrows. The trail indeed became quite narrow, with some serious drop-offs along the way. This may not be the best hike for anyone who struggles with heights!

 We made our way to a promenade area called The Patio.  It was an incredibly beautiful area, and we hung around for a good hour and a half. It was amazing – there were tiny, intermittent pools of water way up here among the rocks, and every one of them was filled with tadpoles. There was also a surprising green area filled wit plants and trees: it was like discovering a hidden oasis in the middle of a hot, dry desert.

Havasu Creek

My absolute favorite side hike appeared at Mile 156.7. We tied up the rafts in a small raids where Havasu Creek meets the mighty Colorado River. We knew we were in for a treat when we spotted the huge contrast between the milky blue water of Havasu Creek and “The Big Muddy.” While the hike along the creek was a bit challenging in spots due to narrow ledges, the trail was absolutely lovely. The blue-green color of the water was striking as it coursed through the red canyon walls.

We came upon a delightful area with little waterfalls and tranquil turquoise pools. We spent a couple of hours swimming and relaxing, thoroughly enjoying this hidden paradise.

We spotted a couple of bighorn sheep enjoying the area as well. A female came right down to the stream for a drink, and she didn’t appeared to be the least bit put off at having a bunch of tourists snapping her photo.

Lava Falls Rapids

At Mile 179, we encountered Lava Falls, the mightiest set of rapids on our trip. Lava Falls is rated as a class 10, the highest classification within the Grand Canyon. We tied up our rafts upstream, and then walked down the shore so our guides could scout out the best way to run the rapids.

We clambered back into the raft and hung on for dear life. There was one huge drop and we all were besieged by a wall of water. The whole wild ride lasted about 12 seconds. While I’m sure it was technically difficult for the guides to maneuver through it, the rest of us didn’t have to do a thing other than make sure we stayed in the boat! As soon as we made it downstream we scrambled out of the raft so that we could watch our second raft coming through.

Grand Canyon Sky Walk

As we neared Lake Mead, we caught sight of the Grand Canyon Skywalk towering 4,000 feet above us. The skywalk is a horseshoe-shaped glass walkway that extends 70 feet out over the rim of the Grand Canyon and allows visitors to peer through the glass straight down to the bottom of the canyon. The Skywalk is on the reservation land of the Hualapai Native American tribe. Using binoculars, we could barely make out people walking around up there.

Grand Canyon rafting trips run from April -October. Due to my teaching job and my nephew still being in school, our trip began on the 4th of July. Daytime temperatures reached  between 100-115 degrees, which quite frankly was a bit hot for me. Even with the summer heat, the river water was icy cold: too cold to comfortably just jump in and cool off. There were nights when the heat radiating off of the Canyon walls made it difficult to sleep. If we ever sign on for a repeat adventure, I would prefer to go in May or September when the summer heat isn’t quite that intense. No matter which month of the year you choose to go, be prepared to have sand get into EVERYTHING. That’s just a part of the Grand Canyon River Rafting experience.

We highly recommend Colorado River and Trails Expeditions for your Grand Canyon rafting adventure. Their longer river trips cost somewhere in the $3,000 range. The company provides knowledgeable guides, a sleeping bag, foam pad, ground cloth, cot, waterproof bags for personal belongings, delicious meals, life preservers and transportation form the designated meeting place. (for us, this was Los Vegas) A number of other outfitters also run rafting trips on the Colorado River. Check out the National Park Service website to research more options.

Packing Tips

All of the rafting companies will provide you with a detailed packing list. The key is to have all of the essentials without having too much luggage. We followed CRATES’s packing list and it did cover all of the necessities.

The one “must have ” item that I didn’t have? A copy of Belknap’s Grand Canyon River guide. One member of our group had one and I was constantly pestering him to take a look at it. This handy, waterproof guide includes mile-by-mile details through the Canyon, including descriptions of the river rapids, campsites, topographic maps, geology and archaeology along the way, and history of the area. There are journaling pages to make notes about your trip. Best of all, pages blot dry easily if it accidentally get wet.

About 3 days in, I finally figured out how to dress.  On the first day, I wore regular shorts and underwear – a disaster!  The next day, I wore a surfing bathing suit bottom.  That worked out well in regards to getting wet, but my legs felt like they were on fire from the sun.  I didn’t get sunburned, thanks to gallons of sunscreen, but it still felt like my legs were blazing.  Turns out the best outfit for keeping cool is my lightweight long-sleeved shirt over a tank top and my zip-off pants.  The trick is to keep dipping the shirt into the river so that it is constantly wet.  I could leave the shirt behind and zip off the pant legs whenever we stopped for a hike.

The sun and heat are intense in the Canyon, so you’ll need to think about sun protection. Think sunscreen, lip balm, wide-brimmed hat and light, loose-fitting clothing. Be sure that you have a hat that can be secured by tying or using a hat clip. We found that fishing caps are perfect for rafting expeditions. The Ordenado Waterproof Sun Hat has an adjustable chin strap,

I love this environmentally friendly lip balm. All Terrain Lip Balm’s SPF 28 offers protection against sunburn or chapping, It is made with Zinc Oxide and is paraben-free.

Sturdy water sandals or multi-sport shoe that can get wet with good tread & support for hikes are a must. We ended up preferring water sandals over a water shoe. Teva makes a hurricane sandal for men, women and children that is perfect for the rugged terrain around the river.

A sturdy, durable water bottle is a must. I was happy to have an insulated bottle form Klean Kantene that helped keep drinking water cold even in the intense heat of the canyon. Klean’s Classic Stainless Steel Double Wall Insulated Water Bottle with Loop Cap was perfect for use on the raft and on side hikes.

You definitely want to have lots of sunscreen with you, with at least 50 SPF. I prefer lotions for everyday use when I am at home. However, spray sunscreen seemed to work better on our rafting trip. It was easy to spray my feet after getting wet, rather than having to remove my sandals to rub the lotion in. We typically choose reef-friendly sunscreen, and this seemed like a good idea in the canyon environment as well. I love using Sun Bum products, which moisturize as well as provide sun protection.

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Looking for another exciting rafting adventure? Check out our blog post on Rafting The Tidal Bore in Nova Scotia.

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